Before we even moved into our house, the previous homeowner told us we'd have to replace some of the windows. Many of the seals were broken and some of the windows had some cracks. We held off as long as we could — it's not the most exciting use of money. But the investment can actually help save you money in the long run as you gain energy efficiency.
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There are so many considerations when it comes to windows. It can be daunting to go into a showroom for the first time! We've outlined some of the key features that will help guide you through the decision-making process. From how you want the windows to open and whether your HOA allows different grid patterns to how energy efficiency ratings can change the tint of the glass, we've got you covered in this guide to buying new windows.
If you have an HOA, read through the bylaws for rules on materials, colors, and style. If any part of the look will be changing, the HOA will most likely need to approve. If the look will not change, generally there is no need to approve. But sending an email confirming this to be the case is helpful in maintaining a positive relationship with your HOA.
Wood-exterior windows will always require more upkeep, regardless of climate, but this is especially the case in areas with a lot of humidity and rainfall. Brand new wood windows should be painted after install, and again within 2 years of install. After that they should be painted every 6 years or so. If the windows will be getting intense, direct sunlight for more than an hour each day, then you’ll also want to be careful about painting the exterior of the windows a dark color due to the potential intensity of the heat absorbed by the material. In areas with more moderate climates, vinyl windows are a great option and often less expensive than wood or aluminum/metal. In direct sunlight, vinyl windows do have a tendency to discolor and warp over time. If you live in a place with an intense climate, aluminum or metal will hold up the best, but you’re limited on color options.
The way the window opens is a big consideration for each room. For example, double-hung windows open on the top or the bottom, while single hung only open on the bottom. Awning windows will open slightly on the bottom, and casement windows open on the side. In some spaces, such as a shower, you may not want the window to open at all, so opt for a picture window. Talk through each room and its use specifically, and think about how you want that window to operate. Don’t feel the need to have every window operate the same way. Your windows can all have the same light pattern and look, while operating in a way that is best for each room.
If the frames of your windows are in good shape, you can often save a lot of money by opting for replacement sash kits instead of a whole new window. Sash kits replace everything within the window jamb. They’re much easier to replace (no need for removing trim outside or inside the home) and are less expensive than full windows. Not every brand has sash kits in every style, so talk with your window supplier about what’s doable in your home.
If you don’t want any restrictions on what color you make your windows, wood is probably best because it can be painted any color. Aluminum windows often come from the factory in your choice of color, as picked from a limited color palette the manufacturer offers. If you want aluminum, then ask to see their swatch deck and choose carefully. While aluminum windows can be painted, doing so voids any kind of warranty on the product so it’s best to get the color right from the start. Vinyl often has basic color selections, and it will not hold paint well later on.
The “lites” in a window refers to the grid pattern. If your window has a grid of 3 across and 3 down, that’s considered a 9-lite window. Consider the window sizes around your home and how they will look together. If you have a 36" wide, 9-lite window on a wall next to a 24" window you need to replace, it might feel like you want to make it another 9-lite window. But in this case you may opt for a 6-lite window (2 across, 3 down) because then the lites themselves from each window will look the same size. Consider the look you want to achieve and choose the lite count on each window accordingly.
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There are a few options for coatings on windows as well. There are coatings that provide better insulation, coatings that block UV light, coatings that provide obscurement and privacy, and coatings that offer glare reduction. There are mirror coatings, decorative coatings, and after-market films and covers that can be added. Each coating will alter the clarity and/or color of the windows, so be sure to ask your window sales rep what the impact of each coating will be.
Due to governmental regulations, all new windows have to pass minimum efficiency ratings and even the least expensive of options will be more efficient than top-line windows from 30 years ago. The higher you go in energy ratings, the higher the price (typically). However, that usually translates over to savings with energy costs so it’s always worth discussing with your window rep. And if a couple hundred dollars helps a room feel less drafty every day that you live in your home, it’s definitely worth the consideration.
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So what did we pick for our home? We opted for wood exterior and interior in a high energy-rated option. We kept the look the same as our current windows to avoid issues with the HOA. The interior of our windows will be pre-painted in black for all rooms. We plan to paint the exterior a color, but if for some reason we’re unable to get it approved by the HOA, we always have the option to just paint them white again. For now, they'll be primed and ready to paint.
Most of our windows are double-hung, but we have some bay windows in our bedroom and picture windows peppered throughout. We held off on ordering windows for our bathroom, because at this time we’re still running through the layout. Come back soon to see what we pick!
Nearly all of our windows will be sash kits, though we have four arched windows that Sierra Pacific (the company we went with) doesn’t offer a sash kit in wood for. So for two of them we are doing full tear-out replacements in aluminum. They are toward the back of the house and we selected white as the color. So they can remain white if we paint everything else or we can choose to void the warranty and paint them to match. Where it’s only two windows, voiding the warranty on them is less of a concern.
There are also two arched windows on the front of our house on the left side that are not available from Sierra Pacific at all (they’re a width that isn’t supported by their manufacturing). So we will be ordering a full replacement of the two custom-made windows there. We didn’t add any coatings, but due to the energy efficiency there may be a slight blue hue in certain lighting from the outside.
Now you know more than you ever thought you'd know about windows. We hope it's less daunting now that you can decide what matters to you. Windows are the "eyes" of the home and an investment that lasts for decades. It's worth taking the time to consider all of your options!
Did you decide on an exterior color yet? We are currently looking at trim options for our red brick and I have been wondering what you would pick?
We're going to reveal our color pick soon, so stay tuned!
Good summary. Be careful about sash kit. Know what you are ordering. Are you ordering only new sash and the writhe system or does the “kit” comes with a new window frame. In that case we call the “kit” an insert and the new sashes and window frame is inserted and screwed to the current window frame. Companies won’t tell you that yes it is cheaper to install (no casings to remove, no new insulation to add, less mess, etc) but you get a smaller window overall and therefore less glass. Then the compagnies will typically cover the old window frame with aluminum. The whole look is very different from replacing the window with full-frame windows that are actually inserted to the studs. Even high-end companies like Pella, Marvin, etc. offer “inserts”. So know what you are buying before choosing “sash kits”, as it may even be “insert windows”. As for “lites” the choice of configuration should be based on the classical golden rules. More information on replacement windows and “lite” can be found at http://www.oldhouseguy.com. As for sash colors, that website is also a good reference on choosing appropriate historical colors. Thank you Julia for a great blog, I am always learning a lot from you and your design choice always pushes me to be braver in my esthetics!
Sorry,
I made a typo, I meant the “weight” system not the “writhe” system!
I would also recommend looking at the warranty of the windows. We had 28 windows to replace and plan to stay in our house for 40+ years. We chose a window company with a lifetime warranty. Including glass breakage. In the last 4 years, birds have cracked 3 of our windows and the window company brought new sashes at no charge. The warranty was a big factor in our choice of company and we are very happy with them.
Please don't perpetuate the marketing myth that replacement windows will pay for themselves or save you money overall. It takes many, many years to simply break even with the energy savings vs. the extremely high cost of the windows. Sure, you do save energy costs, but you rarely have net savings.
What about wood composite? That option adds significantly to cost up front, but I'm considering them because they offer the look of wood, while tolerating heat without warping/fading, and they don't require frequent repainting. Would appreciate your insight!
We’re needing to replace most of our windows and the thought of doing it is daunting so this was actually really helpful! Thank you for the well thought out post!
Curious how wide your grids are? 7/8"? 1 1/8"?
Hi Jen! The grids are 1".
Just in time as we will also be replacing our windows with SP sash kits this winter. Thanks so much for the very helpful advice and info!
Hi, I notice you didn't mention fiberglass windows. We got them about 10 years ago (fiberglass on the exterior, wood on the interior). They look like wood on the outside and could come in a color, and can be painted, but don't have the same maintenance, rotting, etc. problems as wood. Are they still a thing? They were the top of the line when we got them. Still 100% perfect!
I came here to say the same thing! We are currently in the process of replacing our windows and we are doing fiberglass!
Have u guys ever seen the European tilt and turn windows? We are getting them in our ne build but they open inward instead.of out..so nice to clean but now trying to figure out solutions for roman shades..! Also, would u share your clearance height under all of your cased openings? I'd love to add interior transoms in our main areas but we'd only have standard door height clearance at 82" ..not sure if that's too low!
Hi Allison! For the transoms, it really depends on the space. If you're unsure if you can add them, it's best to have a contractor come in and take a look to give some guidance. We don't have experience with the European tilt and turn, but it sounds interesting!
This is what we did! I was horrified to learn that this is not standard practice in all areas of the country. In the heart of the Midwest, I can't imagine our extreme temperature swings without this added insulation.
Hi - this is a super helpful post. Would you mind expanding on what grids you went with? It seems like window companies are pushing the between the glass option now, but I can’t help but think it would cheapen the look of the window.
Hi Kierstyn - I confirmed that Chris and Julia's lights are outside the glass, not inside. Inside is less expensive, and it’s a lot easier to wash the windows, but I think you're correct that they don’t have the same look. Really, that decision will depend on the style of the home and what makes sense there. In their first Idaho home they added windows with the grids in between glass and it was great there. For this home, because of the style, having the light grids outside of the glass was the only option.
An important point about window replacement is to take the opportunity to add spray foam around the existing frame if you notice that the insulation around the window is not great. Normally you can feel this with your hand: the wall is colder right around the window than further away from the window. Removing walls to add new insulation is a hassle, but you can get FAR with spray foam these days, and there are nozzles that get into extremely tight areas. Window replacement is one of those events when you can get SO much more for your money if you simply stand ready with a can of spray foam.